The Festivus continues

So we've had a few more awesome days of climbing, more fun partners, almost two feet of snow, and it's time for a day of rest for the hands and arms.

Wednesday, we had to attempt a rescue mission to see if we could find Rachel's lost favorite glove on Multi Gully. No dice on the glove, but the climbing was excellent (and cold).

Rachel yelling "Hold on little glove!"

Thursday brought a big snowstorm and our friend Nick. By the time we woke up there was over a foot on the ground and it continued to puke snow all day. We decided to go check out the Canyon and were not disappointed. I threw up lead on Ice Slot that was a lot of fun and pretty tricky. The columns in the middle of the climb proved to be fragile and broke away a lot as I climbed. It was really fun to lead this climb since it was the first ice climb I ever saw somebody lead.

High avalanche potential if you're a bird.

This is a good picture if you're falling over as you view it. I think Nick was mid-fall when he pushed the button.

Kind of proud of that lead.

My brother's friend's friend, Alex, leading Ice Slot back on 12/30/08 in slightly fatter conditions.

Since all the easily-approached climbs in the canyon were well occupied, we decided to run home, grab a bite to eat, and then head up to Pitchoff. Some TR laps until after dark capped off the evening.


Yesterday, we decided to go for mileage on steep ice and went up to the Quarry. I lost count of how many laps we did and we were all completely shot by the end of the day. I think today is a good day to break out the cross-country skis and then get back after it tomorrow. Climbs on the tick list include Lions, Hot Shot, Haggis and Cold Toast, and maybe Three Flows and The Sisters.

Festivus of Ice Begins

Merry Christmas! So this is a few days worth of climbing rolled into one update. It's been a great run lately with the conditions finally starting to cooperate consistently. The weathermen are still idiots and claiming the temps will be ten degrees colder than they actually end up being every night.

We're four days in to an eleven day festivus of climbing and eating. We've been climbing all day every day (except for today) and eating all evening, then waking up the next day to rinse and repeat.

We started Saturday With Ben and Dan at North Face of Pitchoff. The place was all but empty and we had our pick of climbs. Since it was Ben's first time on Adirondack ice, we decided to do a bunch of single pitch routes. We did Arm & Hammer, Tendonitis, Moss Gyhl and two lines on Central Pillar. All were in great shape and continuing to build. We forgot our camera so I'll have to guilt Ben into sending some shots.

Sunday, we added Rachel's dad to the mix and went to the canyon. Unfortunately, the first bunch of lines we came to were all really wet. There was water running on top of and behind Lions, Hot Shot and Ice Slot. Fearing the ice might not be well attached, we scooted up to Pitchoff and got on a few different lines there. Rachel, Jim and I climbed Boozer and Bowser - great lines for getting Jim back in the rhythm of climbing ice (now without having to chop steps).

Here's proof that you can teach an old man to climb steep ice.

Dan and Ben climbed a line on Pitchoff Left and then Ben put up a very proud lead on Sisters Right. Here's Dan following.

Yesterday, we headed up to Rachel's favorite route, Multiplication Gulley. We heard a guy in the Mountaineer saying he was up there, but bailed. He thought it was climbable, but didn't like the protection available. I've been wanting to climb this route in thinner conditions so it was time to take a poke.

After the first pitch, we got a look at the upper reaches. Everything looked good, except for a twelve foot missile just above the exit of the crux cave. (Next two pictures). I knew I had to drop it so it didn't come down on Rachel as she followed. Good call, as it only took two smacks with an axe and the thing came unglued. As it started to fall, it also broke into six or seven mini fridge sized pieces and proceeded to rain hellfire down the route. Rachel was tucked way back on the right wall and was well out of the line of fire so we both just got a hell of a show. Besides that, the line went really well. Great Man Yoga required to get through the cave.

Enjoy the pics.

Just before the cave. Thanks to whoever left the rusty piton on climber's right.

Second pitch of the route.

The hanging missile prior to becoming shrapnel.

Top of the missile post-apocalypse.

Hero ice near the top.

From the top belay.

NFOP Weekend

We started the weekend on a "(th)in" Moss Ghyl. (Th)in is a new word that means it's thick enough to climb, but will probably refuse to take any meaningful protection. No matter how many times we do this climb, I'm always a little surprised by how steep it is. The double fall-line appearance makes it look a lot less steep. Good time climbing ice that most closely resembled frozen grapefruits stuck to the rock. A couple stubby screws and a sling around a dead log was all the pro to be had.



Top of Moss Ghyl left behind the grapefruit ice and actually took a screw. (10cm Baby!)

She has a knack for always looking super mellow. Unfortunately, this is about 30 seconds before the barfies set in with a vengeance.

Upper part of the route from below. It never looks all that steep from the ground.

Today was spent on Weeping Winds, one of the big, beautiful lines hanging above the beaver pond. We took W.W. Left, which stays left of the dude in the red jacket and finishes with a great head wall of thick(er) ice. Everything was relative, since the first two pitches took no pro.

W.W. is the right patch of ice. There's a guy 1/4 of the way up in yellow pants and a red jacket. A true fashionista from North Carolina.

Low down on the route. One more long pitch of super thin ice led to better conditions and steeper ice above.

The money pitch! Great ice, a few thought-provoking moves, and a lot of air below your feet.