We're four days in to an eleven day festivus of climbing and eating. We've been climbing all day every day (except for today) and eating all evening, then waking up the next day to rinse and repeat.
We started Saturday With Ben and Dan at North Face of Pitchoff. The place was all but empty and we had our pick of climbs. Since it was Ben's first time on Adirondack ice, we decided to do a bunch of single pitch routes. We did Arm & Hammer, Tendonitis, Moss Gyhl and two lines on Central Pillar. All were in great shape and continuing to build. We forgot our camera so I'll have to guilt Ben into sending some shots.
Sunday, we added Rachel's dad to the mix and went to the canyon. Unfortunately, the first bunch of lines we came to were all really wet. There was water running on top of and behind Lions, Hot Shot and Ice Slot. Fearing the ice might not be well attached, we scooted up to Pitchoff and got on a few different lines there. Rachel, Jim and I climbed Boozer and Bowser - great lines for getting Jim back in the rhythm of climbing ice (now without having to chop steps).
Here's proof that you can teach an old man to climb steep ice.
Dan and Ben climbed a line on Pitchoff Left and then Ben put up a very proud lead on Sisters Right. Here's Dan following.
Yesterday, we headed up to Rachel's favorite route, Multiplication Gulley. We heard a guy in the Mountaineer saying he was up there, but bailed. He thought it was climbable, but didn't like the protection available. I've been wanting to climb this route in thinner conditions so it was time to take a poke.
After the first pitch, we got a look at the upper reaches. Everything looked good, except for a twelve foot missile just above the exit of the crux cave. (Next two pictures). I knew I had to drop it so it didn't come down on Rachel as she followed. Good call, as it only took two smacks with an axe and the thing came unglued. As it started to fall, it also broke into six or seven mini fridge sized pieces and proceeded to rain hellfire down the route. Rachel was tucked way back on the right wall and was well out of the line of fire so we both just got a hell of a show. Besides that, the line went really well. Great Man Yoga required to get through the cave.
Enjoy the pics.
Just before the cave. Thanks to whoever left the rusty piton on climber's right.
Second pitch of the route.
The hanging missile prior to becoming shrapnel.
Top of the missile post-apocalypse.
Hero ice near the top.
From the top belay.
Looks good up there!
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